Pukaskwa in the Spring Day 5, May 23 2024
2:30 AM
It seems the great lake isn't done with me. I woke to heavy rain and howling winds. I hope this blows over. I'm typing this up and the rain seems to have stopped, but I can hear what sounds like a hurricane outside. I can't hear my tarp flapping anymore, so I'm betting it may have completely collapsed. Something else I noticed is that my house battery is reading 12.9v which shouldn't be the case with this inverter charger on it. As an experiment, I pulled the battery cut off I have directly on the inverter, since it has about a 1.9a parasitic draw when not in use, and then reconnected it. Low and behold, it started charging the battery at about 67A according to my flow meter. I wonder why that is? does it get a full charge and then just not provide any more charging after that? It must be the case, because I am looking at the meter and it is once again registering a -1.02 A draw. I wonder just how flat the battery needs to be in order to cause the inverter to charge it again? do I need to manually flip it? I'll have to write Renogy and see, this thing was a factory second, it is way out of warranty.. maybe there's some sort of firmware update I can get or something. I'll have to ask and see, the manual is pretty vague about anything to do with the charging system. One final point. I am thirsty. I have one of the canteens I filled with boiling water, you know, one of the ones that is a vacuum bottle.. like all of the rest of them. Can I say they are exceptionally good at holding heat? How do I have a nice refreshing glug of boiling hot water? I suppose its time I have to get a 'regular' bottle. But I'm not putting boiling water into plastic, that is for sure. I guess I'll just have to leave the cap off somewhere safe like inside the car to let them cool or make them all into tea. Nah, scratch that, tea residue is a PITA to get out of stainless steel bottles.
Off to sleep again.
6:00am
Holy crap, I slept in. I'm just going to use the single burner backpacking stove to make coffee, have granola and some protein powder and get on with it. The sun is already up, not that there's anything to see but gray. First things first though, off to the comfort station. On return, I saw movement on my campsite.. I crept in slowly and watched carefully, and I saw a football sized grey rabbit meandering through. Of course, I didn't have anything on me at all that could take pictures, so this will just have to be a personal memory. He hopped off across the road and disappeared into the bramble on the far side, never to be seen again most likely. After breakfast, I did as I said and swapped out my boots for the old ones.. they already feel more comfortable and supportive. I'm actually a little ticked - if I'd worn these on the trip to the suspension bridge, would I be as sore as I am? Probably not. These ones are being relegated to donation or possibly just used for walking around town. I can't afford to use them for work, they'll kill my feet especially when I'm walking on concrete back and forth. I got some snacks into my backpack, and off I went. This is my last day, so I wanted to cross things off as much as I can. I actually am considering packing my tarp and such before bed tonight, but everything is still wet, and I don't want to pack them away wet unless I absolutely have to. Tomorrow is supposed to be partially cloudy, so with luck they will dry overnight. I'll just have to decide after I get back from my hike. I'm a bit bummed that weather wasn't better, but on the other hand there's lots of bonuses to bad weather - like, the half of the campground that has utility power is relatively full, but the other half isn't. Most of those people get in their cars in the morning and drive off to ??? and aren't seen again until 1-2pm at earliest. The remainder as far as I can tell just hunker in their RV's the entire day, leaving the trails essentially to my prerogative all day. I have only seen one set of people out on the trails other than me, and they must have saved my ass by finding my canteen. There's been fresh tracks of course, but I’ve never met or seen anyone else this entire time actually on the trails. As a result, I walked over to the trailhead for Manito Miikana which is in the non powered part of the park, and that part of the park appears to be vacant. Unfortunately, there is ONE powered site over here by itself, not on the map.. I wish I would have seen it when I came in otherwise I would have taken it and been absolutely by myself. Having the power has been a game changer here, compared to killarney last fall, just being able to use the heater all night to keep things warm in here. Especially since last night I considered using my sleeping bag just for some weight when I was having trouble sleeping (backpacker's muscles are sore) and the zip from the zipper just.. came right off in my hand. I tried to re-attach it.. and tried to pry the two halves apart to open the duffel, but in my sleep addled ability it was an insurmountable challenge. The Trail head was sort of 'part of the trail system' so I had to start on the boardwalk, I could have for instance just gone and done the headlands, beach, and then reach the trail, but I opted to cut to the chase and start at the beach boardwalk, which helpfully puts you right at that observation deck I found yesterday. And boy are the waves coming in. The weather radio said 2-3M waves and it wasn't kidding, they are coming straight at shore, the wind is blowing much more fiercely and I’m barely able to keep my hat on. I'm very glad I dug into the 'winter' clothes bin I brought on a whim, I'm equipped with the merino wool t-shirt, covered by a sweatshirt, covered by my raincoat. That is pretty good insulation and wind breakage. I also am wearing the gloves I wore at killarney which are a bit thicker than the other gloves I used to use, but also water resistant and still provide enough tactile feedback that I can understand the camera buttons by touch alone. I'm still rotating through pairs of 'darn tough' hiking socks. They are also excellent, and even though they're usually $40 a pair they are wool, and hug your feet extremely well. I still prefer my mom's wool socks for general use though. I haven't broken out the electric socks yet, if I didn't have the heater in here I'd for sure be using them. I'm digressing again, suffice to say, I was prepared for the ~40kph wind gusting to ~70kph at 5c though my eyes and nose were watering. That old outback hat that cooks my head in the summer, keeps it warm in the shoulder seasons, especially with the lupa under it. I spent probably 20-30 minutes on the beach overlook shooting hundreds of wave shots. I got long clips with the 360 as well. I hope I can do something with it, piecing this section of the trip into a coherent video will be difficult since it is too windy in most cases to explain it. Voiceovers kind of suck, though I generally lean on them.
After I was done with horseshoe bay, I walked to the end of the beach and into the forest again, turning left on the trail where it reaches a junction. Going straight will take you to the next beach on the beach trail, which depending on how I feel or how the weather goes I may walk this afternoon. The trail immediately climes a set of sturdy stairs, and up into the rocks, this would surely have done me in on the first day, but I believe I’ve finally worked all of the 'Toronto' out of my body and it is responding like it should now instead of having the usual delay. This trail is probably the best so far for views, it goes around so you can see the area where the headlands trail does, and also you can see the huge muddy swath of the pic river inlet, the deep and light blues mix with the milky coffee colours of the pic river in interesting ways. The winds are so fierce here that a seagull is just hovering while gliding right in front of me holding something in his beak, I got lots of shots of him, I hope they aren’t overexposed. He dropped whatever he was holding I think I might have gotten that in frame as well, focus is another consideration, since I have it set to single shot at the moment. Continuing out onto the point I got several more opportunities to get wave and rock action, and finally got to the first proper lookout. This was a nice enclosure with plexiglass and I set up some long exposures here, which hopefully turn out good. The previews look interesting at least. I then hunkered down sitting on the platform so most of me could hide from the wind, though unfortunately it was still shooting up through the planks and also up my back. It still gave me some welcome relief, I think I may be getting wind burned because my face feels like it has a sunburn. After a quick snack and some warm water (not complaining that it is warm now am I?) I continued to the second lookout, which was overlooking horseshoe bay and Hattie cove's entrances. I got some shots here, but really think the other location was superior (lol). And then returned back down the trail to Horseshoe bay, things were a bit quieter now and there was a flock of sand pipers daring the waves. They literally don't give a crap I'm here. I thought they were going to fly right into me as they were hunting for bugs washing ashore. I got some pretty personal shots, hopefully some of those are going to be in focus, because like the waves they run in and out, and all fly away in circles looking for the best place to land and feed. After about 4.5 hours I've returned to my campsite. Its still pretty cold at 8 degrees, but I still have my door open as I type this and copy today's pictures to storage. The sun seems to be coming out, and I've been watching a couple warblers jump around not too far away looking for scraps or bugs on the ground. Probably should get some lunch and see what the afternoon has in store.
So all things considered, I want to try and get to Kettle lakes right at 2:00pm so I can have some time to explore that I didn't get last time, I'll have some time in the morning of Saturday for sure, but once again, I want some time at my parents place on Saturday to get everything squared away so I'll have Sunday to edit photos and rest. That leaves the evening to get things done at kettle lakes, and I could rush there and get there before 2pm but I don't want to. IF I get there and my site has someone on it still, I have to drive around with the trailer and waste fuel and time I could be setting up camp and then walking around. So the only option is for me to have a big breakfast for dinner early, and that means I skip lunch and go to the end of the beach trail while the sun is still out. I removed the reflector in the skylight before I left to allow the sun into the trailer to warm it up a bit since I’d had the door open, and grabbed just the 360 and the 5dmkiv and my camera bag and went. And holy crap I saw 3 other people. I guess the sun roused them like reverse vampires from their RVs All older than me, they looked pretty surprised to see me, but we passed by with general pleasantries said to people who will likely never see each other again, and I headed for the big beach. There's driftwood as far as the eye can see. I guess it all washes down from the pic river and then washes ashore here. The brown water from the pic has overtaken this entire bay as well. The photographic opportunities here kind of lie in the small things, and I got a few, but generally I couldn't find a good composition here. The sun has obviously gone to hide again, because I'm outside and not inside where it thinks I belong I guess. I went to the very far end of the beach where there was a sign explaining about an endangered thistle that was going to be wiped out by natural means, that they rescued and replanted here. They further replanted it in other areas. I guess it is too early for this plant because I saw some leaves that looked similar, but nothing flowering. I generally try to not step on plants so I just was extra gingerly as I explored the beach to the smooth rock point at the other end. While I was there I saw a pink coat photographer in the distance by herself shooting various things on the beach, but she was long gone by the time I got over to see what she was shooting, and honestly didn't see anything of interest there myself. I set up the tripod to add to my growing collection of waves exploding over rocks pictures, and then returned. On my way back, I came across a single sandpiper who was just sort of hiding in one of my footprints from this morning. When it saw me, it jumped up and started doing sandpiper things in the surf. It kept looking back at me... was it hamming itself up for the camera? I walked around the strange sandpiper and back up the beach, where I saw a couple of guys working on the platform I was using earlier this morning. So I had to go back along the secondary trail.. and I saw a flash of orange flit by and crash in the sand in front of me. My gosh! Is it the first Monarch? because It sure looks like one. maybe not 'the first' but 'a first' for sure. It had a death grip on a twig and was fluttering trying to get into the air but the wind was too strong. So I picked up the twig, and used my body to shelter it from the wind, and carried it further back into the forest where the wind wasn't so bad. I deposited it on a tree. I wonder if it will survive? There's no milkweed over here yet.. there is tons of pollen though. I returned to the trailer to find that the two idiots had been replaced by a canadream RV. and I also saw that there was a notice attached to the door of the rv one site to the east of me, they were supposed to leave this morning, according to the post.. I didn't read the notice.. something creepy about that rv. I saw a car there that couldn't possibly tow that one day one, and they were hanging out there, but after that there hasn't been anyone else. I returned to my site to find everything dry, so I had my 'lupper' tidied up and tore down the tarp and poles, removing as much pollen as I could and then folding it and storing it where it belongs under my bed in the trailer. The table cloth is looking a bit worse for wear.. I think I stored it wet last time and there was mold on it when it came out here.. I scrubbed it the best I could, but there's also holes and stains in it. This may be the last trip for it. Some of that was my fault, but I figured it'd be ok because it is plastic. Live and learn. I took my garbage over to the waste station and brushed my teeth at the comfort station. I'm going to probably have a hobo shower tomorrow morning and change into some fresh clothes for the trip back south east. The weather radio said there's going to be rain again tonight and then clearing in the morning, so at least I won't be driving in the rain. I will miss this place. This is a long drive, it takes a lot out of you, and you leave behind parts of yourself here. If it were up to me I'd spend spring, summer and fall here, or at least around Lake Superior. Watching the way it changes, documenting it, understanding it. I could never do it, though, maybe if I do get that van thing going, or a mid sized trailer and vehicle to tow it. But I still wouldn't be able to afford it. With this feeling of melancholy I'll sign off here. Tomorrow is going to be busy, I might as well get some photos edited before bed. 5:14 PM.
I finished my first round of editing by 8:30PM I have to say, I'm starting to wonder if I took these or if someone else did. It seems the tips I've been reading have made some improvement. I think there are even some portfolio worthy shots in there, but none good enough for the world photography contest..